If you are going to get into salami making or whole muscle curing you're going to need a chamber for incubation and drying. In the case of whole muscle curing just a drying chamber will do.
A fermented salami is inoculated with a bacteria, something along the lines of yoghurt, and then the salami needs to be held at a specific temperature for a certain time (generally 24hrs) to populate the salami with the bacteria. The bacteria brings down the ph (making it more acidic). This makes it an inhospitable environment for bad bacteria to grow in. The fermentation also adds a nice sour note to the salami's flavour profile.
After this step the salami needs to be dried for a long period of time in an environment where we can have a degree of control over temperature and humidity. Temperature is easy to control, humidity not so much. I use a wine fridge which is designed to keep wine somewhere between 12-15 degrees Celsius. This is also exactly the temperature range we need to dry our salamis and whole muscles.
The humidity is much harder to control. Auckland, where I live, is a humid place. When you fill a small container with raw meat, the relative humidity soars. Somewhere near 95%. This is unavoidable. You've just got to empty out the dew collector in your fridge as often as possible and open the door frequently to get some fresh air in there. Once some of the water has evaporated from your products, the humidity will drop and things get a little easier to deal with. Mould is the toughest thing we have to contend with. It will be all sorts of colours and it will freak you out. The green stuff smells awful too. Never fear! You can brush it, or wash it off and keep going. After the moisture content in the product drops, the mould will become easier to control. Using a commercial mould spray is a great way to have some control. I use a product called Mold 600 from http://www.butcher-packer.com in the US. But yet again it seems advisable to wait until the moisture levels have dropped a bit (1-2 weeks) before you apply it. At this point the mould culture you introduce should have no problem taking over the environment and edging out all the multi-coloured freaks you've been dealing with.
So the wine fridge is ready made to dry meat you just need to add some stuff to it to make it an incubator when you need it.
Introducing the stc 1000 PID temperature controller and the brewers heat pad:
By plugging the heat pad and fridge into the temperature controller, you can set a desired temperature and the controller will maintain that temperature within a set threshold, in this case 1 degree Celsius. I won't go into the specifics of programming the controller here. It's clearly laid out in the instruction booklet that comes with the unit. It's important to position the temperature probe connected to the controller in the centre of the area where your products are positioned to get the right reading.
In the gallery above the photos should give a you a rough idea of the set-up.
If you're going to embark on this installation process it is extremely important to take all the safety precautions necessary. Take your time studying the wiring diagram that comes on the unit. Check and double check your wiring decisions. Don't hurry the process. This is live electricity we're dealing with here. Below is a link to a piece about wiring colour codes and safety in general in the NZ context.